Two michelin starred dining at the Glasshouse
Tucked away on a discreet mews in the heart of Mayfair, The Greenhouse, holder of two Michelin stars, greets guests with a verdant “garden path” flanked by sculptural greenery. Despite its name, the interior does not evoke a traditional greenhouse. Instead, the dining room leans towards a sleek, understated elegance with white-linen tables, occasional wooden accents, and the faintest touch of ivy, more executive suite than botanical sanctuary.
A legacy of excellence
Founded in 1977, The Greenhouse has long been a stage for culinary excellence. It first earned a Michelin star under Gary Rhodes in 1996, only to lose it following his departure. A new chapter began in 2003 when the restaurant was acquired by MARC (Marlon Abela Restaurant Corporation), also behind Umu and Mortons. Under the direction of Head Chef Paul Merrett, it swiftly regained its star. The second came in 2013 with the arrival of Arnaud Bignon, marking a new peak in the restaurant’s distinguished history.
Since August 2018, The Greenhouse has been led by Head Chef Alex Dilling, who succeeded Bignon. Under Dilling’s guidance, the restaurant’s culinary narrative continues to evolve, bringing precision, confidence, and artistry to each plate.
The front-of-house team excelled with grace and knowledge, offering thoughtful recommendations and engaging in dialogue that revealed a deep appreciation for the menu. While the setting is refined, the service is warm and unpretentious—a rare combination that enhances the overall experience.
The tasting menu
An elegant amuse-bouche began the meal, though its name escaped me—it was delightful nonetheless.
First course
Dorset crab arrived as a vibrant prelude. The natural sweetness of the crab was enhanced by the addition of mint, crisp Granny Smith apples, and a gentle curry undertone. Light, bright, and intricately balanced, it set an impeccable tone.
Second course
The smoked eel followed, a striking plate that melded the bold, oily richness of the eel with earthy beetroot, aromatic dill, and the dense, nutty crumb of pumpernickel. It was a symphony of contrast, executed with finesse.
A supplementary course of tagliolini with Australian black winter truffle and guanciale was pure indulgence. The pasta, silky and toothsome, was a flawless vessel for the umami-laden guanciale and the intoxicating perfume of truffle.
Third course (supplement): Tagliolini with black truffle
Presented in a sculptural, petal-like bowl, the fourth course was a vision of golden simplicity and aromatic indulgence. Nestled at the base, ribbons of fresh tagliolini, silky, tender, and perfectly al dente, were enrobed in a glossy, yolk-rich sauce that clung lovingly to each strand. Atop this sat generous shavings of Australian black winter truffle, their marbled pattern catching the light and releasing an intoxicating aroma as they warmed gently against the pasta’s heat.
This was a dish that spoke in whispers rather than shouts, restrained, but luxuriously so. The truffle, earthy and deeply perfumed, lent a heady depth to the creamy richness below, while the guanciale (if subtly used) added a faint underpinning of cured umami. It was an indulgent interlude, available as a supplement, and well worth the additional charge for those who understand the quiet poetry of truffle and egg.
Fourth course
The veal, served with Ossetra Imperial caviar, hispi cabbage, and dulce seaweed, was a study in opulence and restraint. Each bite offered depth and elegance, marrying land and sea in perfect harmony.
Fifth course
A fillet of turbot was next, paired with broad beans and lovage, and finished with a delicate drizzle of XO sauce. It was a masterclass in subtlety, the fish’s natural sweetness allowed to shine, uplifted by the herbaceous and savoury elements. Regrettably, I was unable to capture an image due to a technical glitch.
Dessert
The meal concluded with a peach dessert accented by linseed and honeysuckle. Light, floral, and texturally nuanced, it was a refreshing finale that left a lasting impression.
Final thoughts
The Greenhouse in Mayfair presents a dining experience that transcends the expected. While the dishes are complex in construction, they remain accessible and deeply satisfying. With its impeccable technique and thoughtful compositions, this Michelin-starred gem is one of London’s most memorable culinary destinations.
A word of caution: I encountered ongoing issues when attempting to contact the reservations team via e-mail. Despite several attempts, including one in November 2023, messages appeared undeliverable.
