Dim Sum Trolleys at Lin Heung Tea House

Opening its doors in 1926, Lin Heung Tea House (蓮香樓) stands as one of Hong Kong’s most iconic tea houses, preserving its interior in a time capsule of tradition. However, it is with a heavy heart that I share this review, given that, since my last visit, the tea house has sadly ceased to trade.

Stepping into History

Preparing for a visit to Lin Heung may require a mental adjustment. The interior, virtually unchanged since its inception, could be overwhelming for those unfamiliar with traditional Chinese venues. Fluency in Cantonese (or Pu Tong Hua) was often an asset, facilitating communication with both the trolley staff and the stranger across the shared table. And yes, you read that right – traditional dim sum served by a lady pushing a trolley.

The use of trolleys is a charming nod to tradition. Picture this: a lady manoeuvring through the dining area, presenting an array of delectable dim sum options directly from the trolley. It’s an integral part of the unique dining experience that Lin Heung offers. I remember when I was living in Hong Kong in my earlier years, I remember ‘trolley ladies’ preparing steamed cheong fun right before my eyes, such preparation included preparing the sauce, and slicing the cheong fun before it was plated

A Glimpse of Chaos

For newcomers, the scene might resemble a culinary battlefield, prompting the necessity of linguistic prowess to navigate the bustling environment. Speaking the local language proved beneficial not only for interacting with the trolley staff but also for engaging with fellow diners at your shared table.

Securing a Table

Upon entering Lin Heung Tea House, your first encounter is a dried seafood counter to your right. Continuing forward, a set of stairs comes into view. In most instances, securing a table involves waiting on the stairs due to the consistently high volume of patrons. However, this scenario is often humorously dubbed as a gathering of ‘vultures looking for their food.’ Occasionally, the waiting staff may guide you to a table, though more often than not, they are bustling around the venue, quite literally.

I mentioned earlier that you would share a table with a stranger. While most younger generations or tourists would find this strange, it is actually common practice for Chinese venues to ask strangers to share a table – this is to ensure every diner can be seated and served.

Shared Dining Dynamics

Contrary to Western norms, the tradition of sharing a table with strangers prevails in Chinese venues, including Lin Heung Tea House. While this might seem peculiar to younger generations or tourists, it serves a practical purpose—ensuring every diner finds a seat and receives prompt service.

Rather than presenting a traditional menu, the staff brings a steaming pot of tea of your choice, accompanied by a cup and a bowl of hot water to cleanse and warm your teacup. Gratefully, I shared a table with a friendly stranger who engaged in a delightful conversation about traditional dim sum. Interestingly, settling the bill often involved adding a letter to your table number, like 11A, 11B, or 11C.

Menu Mystery

The idea of a conventional menu is nearly nonexistent here. The clientele, predominantly the older generation (those aged 65 and above) or young regulars, typically know their preferred dishes. Trolleys, laden with a variety of dim sum options, are a helpful aid for those unsure of their choices. However, be prepared for friendly competition with fellow diners.

During my visit, I had the pleasure of savouring ‘dan san,’ a term used to playfully describe someone as an idiot, coincidentally also the name of a dish—blunt, but indeed a dish on the menu.

Trolley Dash and Foreign Impressions

Engaging in a friendly race with fellow diners toward the trolley ladies, I managed to secure several dishes. However, it became apparent that my ‘foreign’ status was discernible due to:

• The vibrant colours of my attire
• The distinct way I spoke
• Receiving tissues as a heat guard from the ladies, a gesture necessitated by the hot, steamy dishes straight from the trolley

My sheer joy at collecting multiple dishes was unmistakable.

Palate Exploration

For those with a Western palate venturing into traditional venues, a crucial step is inspecting bamboo baskets to avoid encountering ingredients that may not align with your taste (hello, chicken feet). Unusual offerings like siu mai with pork stomach, cheong fun with pork liver, beef offal, and duck feet might catch you by surprise, as they aren’t commonly found in Western culinary landscapes.

Visit from Hong Kong Officials

While savouring the intriguing ‘new’ dim sum dishes, a staff member urgently informed us about the imminent visit of environmental health officials. While routine globally, this visit in Hong Kong had a unique twist – every diner needed to ‘check in’ using the Hong Kong government’s health app for track and trace purposes.

Fortunately, compliance was high, but the timing, being the day before Chinese New Year, cast a shadow on the celebratory atmosphere, ending the year with an unexpected dose of stress.

Farewell to Lin Heung Tea House

Regrettably, these experiences are now distant memories, as Lin Heung Tea House ceased trading in August 2022.